Down East Saltwater Rentals

View of the Island from US Coastal 1

“At night, on a clear night, from the east-west coastal road* that runs along the north shore of Frenchman's Bay, the lights of Bar Harbor are visible across the water. They line a dark shore with mountain behind – a great ocean liner floating upon the waters. If not clear, if fog or rain obscure, a keen sense of disappointment can settle in on the traveler.”

*[US Coastal 1]

The Schoodic Peninsula - Restaurants

Whereas Island dining maintains that delicate balance and tension between an embarrassment of riches and a much of muchness peculiar to areas popular with both the wealthy and tourists, on the Schoodic Peninsula and its immediate environs it is an entirely different matter. The Peninsula does offer some excellent choices. Unfortunately, the list or restaurants below is close to complete.

But first some general remarks and recollections. We will start with a restaurant no longer with us but greatly missed - The Donut Hole. It opened at 5AM every morning and closed at 3PM. We greatly miss their fish stews and fruit pies (for the pies, she used half the sugar of the standard recipes). And their fried fish platters were excellent. Their doughnuts weren't bad either. We did have some friends who once tried to order their chef's salad. The very charming waitress tried to dissuade them but they insisted. It was a disaster. When they informed us later of their disappointing experience our reaction was - "You ordered what at The Donut Hole?"

Also for a brief period one of the Grindstone Neck cottagers (cottagers as in Newport cottages - 30 rooms etc) operated a restaurant on the ground floor of her cottage. The food was actually quite good but some aspects of the experience were a bit strange. For instance, they had an excellent watermelon rind pickle as a garnish. However, if you actually wanted some of it - God help you. They doled it out grudgingly with the suggestion that anyone who wanted more than a brief whiff of it - well, you were a greedy uncouth organism. The fact that we were in fact: greedy uncouth organisms is entirely irrelevant. It would have been far better for them to run out then to be so miserly. People make logistic mistakes all of the time and can be forgiven for them. But stinginess is forever.

And then there was the restaurant in Steuben (the next town east of the Peninsula) whose house speciality was curried goat. While that is a dish that we were more than willing to sample they only had one seating an evening and you needed to make reservations a week in advance - we never made it there.

If the above gives the impression that dining on the Peninsula can be a bit of an adventure you would be correct.